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When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their small restaurant securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.